Saving Ravenna and Theodoric, from Hostage to King

Empress Theodora, detail from the mosaics of San Vitale Basilica, Ravenna

Saving Ravenna 

The floods that ravaged a large area of Emiliia Romagna a month ago killed 14 people and left over 20,000 homeless. The damage amounts to 7 billion euro. When on 16th May the water arrived one km from Ravenna, a desperate plan was hatched, but the only possible at the time.  One bank of a canal was demolished to allow water to flood fields and not reach the city.  So the cultivation of 500 acres of farmland belonging to a farmers' cooperative was wiped away, wheat, hay, sugar beet and fruit trees.  There will be no harvest for the next years to come, how many. they don't know.  The drastic plan worked, Ravenna was saved.  Then thankfully it stopped raining.  In a video Fabrizio Galavotti, chairman of the coop, said it has been a very painful decision, but the preservation of historical Ravenna was more important. 

May 2023 - Five hundred acres of farmland was flooded in order to save Ravenna

Ravenna isn't just beautiful and fascinating, it has huge historical importance. At first glance you see a quiet city and lots of buildings with red brick exteriors - you could be deceived into thinking this is similar to other Italian cities. Yet those buildings are truly ancient, much closer to the oldest part of Rome than most other cities such as Florence, Venice or Naples. Moreover, the interiors sparkle with fabulous mosaics. This is why Ravenna, a fairly small city, has eight world heritage sites. The buildings date mainly from the 5th to the 9th century, a period in which Ravenna became first the capital of the Western Roman Empire and then the capital of Theodoric the Goth's kingdom, a truly outstanding leader.

The reason why Ravenna became the capital of the empire was that both Rome and Milan had become vulnerable to attacks from tribes coming down into Italy from northern Euirope. In 395 a.d. Alaric, the feared chieftain of Gothic forces had just broken through the alpine frontiers of Italy and was about to threaten the imperial government then based in MIlan. Emperor Honorius decided that Ravenna surrounded by marshland was difficult to attack. This was the same reason why a few centuries later Venice would be chosen as a site safe for a settlement, securely built on a lagoon, impossible to attack by horsemen. Ravenna at the time was also by the sea, so its port guaranteed the Roman navy easy links with the Balkan peninsula and the eastern part of the empire.

San Vitale Basilica, Ravenna

Theodoric, from Hostage to Emperor

According to Judith Herrin's pioneering textbook, Ravenna Capital of Empire and Crucible of Europe, Theodoric was born in about 453 a.d. probably in the region of today's Hungary, at a time when several Gothic tribes were, alternately, attacking the Roman empire and cooperating with it by trying to convince emperors that they would fight as loyal allies. In 461 Theodoric's uncle, Valamir, was in charge of their tribe and he arranged a truce with imperial forces, a truce sealed by the exchange of hostages.  Exchanging hostages was then a customary practice to ensure pacts and alliances were respected. Theodoric, who was eight years old, was one of the hostages sent to Constantinople. There at the court of the eastern empire capital, he learnt Latin, Greek and all those military skills that would serve him so well in the future.  Also, he spent ten formative years witnessing the events, processions, celebrations and everyday life of the imperial city.  No doubt when he arrived as a child he must have been hugely impressed by Constantinople triple walls, and its broad avenues leading to great palaces and churches. 

At eighteen years of age Theodoric was sent back to Pannonia by the emperor - he was to help his father and the empire.  At this point however, Theodoric decided to work for himself and no longer for the Eastern empire.  As chieftain of the Ostrogoths he attacked the Sarmatians, another tribe, and captured the fortress of Singidunum (now Belgrade), but refused to hand it to the emperor  There followed twenty years of battles and negotiations between Theodoric and Constantinople, until emperor Zeno agreed that Theodoric could march into Italy, fight and remove Odoacer from power. Then he could reign over Ravenna and the Western Roman empire .... on behalf of the Eastern emperor...! Mmm, how do you think it went? Yep, it all worked out apart from the last bit, Theodoric reigned on behalf of himself, of course.  And he became a great leader, learned, capable and tolerant.  

His biggest legacy in architecture, his grand palace, unfortunately is lost but the palace church, Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, is still there, stunning and resplendent. The word 'nuovo' is deceptive, we are talking about a basilica which is 1,500 years old.  

Along the two long interior walls you have some of the best mosaics ever accomplished. You even have images of what Theodoric's palace looked like.  And Ravenna too. 

Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna - detail of mosaic showing Theodoric’s Palace

Another fabulous building is Theodoric's mausoleum, which was completed six years before his death.  It is made of massive boulders which were quarried in Croatia. The dome is carved out of just one piece, weighing about 250 tons.  The mystery is how did they carry it here from Croatia? Rafts apparently, but seems like a tricky enterprise. 

Theodoric’s Mausoleum

Another gorgeous building is another mausoleum, that of Galla Placidia, an imperial princess whose life was anything but placid.  Galla was the daughter of a Roman emperor but when the Visigoths invaded the empire and sacked Rome she was kidnapped and made to marry a Visigoth. Yes, you have guessed it, another hostage story.  Eventually, she returned to Italy as a Visigoth queen but her life continued to be full of drama.  She became a widow, remarried and had many children and stepchildren.  She ruled too, as a regent.  The building she commissioned for her final resting place is the smallest but the most intriguing of Ravenna Byzantine buildings. The vault is covered by mosaics creating an intense blue starry sky where 999 stars sparkle, with Christ at the centre representing the 1,000th star.  It gave inspiration to Gustav Klimt, Kandinsky and, among other artists, Cole Porter who composed his song Night and Day after seeing the musoleum starry sky. 

Alas for Gallia, her drama continued after death and she didn't manage to be buried here.  Wherever she is let's hope she has found peace.

Mausoleum of Galla Placidia - One Thousand Stars

Other wonderful buildings in Ravenna are San Vitale Basilica and Sant'Apollinare in Classe, yet more maginficent basilicas. The second one is situated just outside the city centre. 

As a break from all the wonders of Ravenna I recommend lunch or dinner at the restaurant Ca' De Ven, which is a total gem and one of my favourites.  Cavernous, rustic, atmospheric, it is in the city centre and the food is delicious. Wonderful home made pasta, from cappelletti to strozzapreti (which means priest-chokers .... this region not being very religious ;-)...).  But also piadine, beautiful light bread rounds served with squaquerone cheese (so soft), and prosciutto di Parma and rocket.  The simpler the better.  Also meat is wonderful, go for the grigliata, barbecued beef or pork. 

You know what, it's been a few years since I was in Ravenna, I think it is time I book another visit ; -)

Ca’ de Ven, Ravenna